While the post-Soviet era has seen a gradual reawakening of communal life for the tens of thousands of Ukrainian Jews, the once-bustling synagogues and centers are now eerily quiet

During a 3-day rush to Kfar Chabad, Mendel and Rivka Borodkin, who work at a girl's seminary in Dnipro, had to steer a group through a series of bureaucratic and other hurdles